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Natural
Sourced Ingredients - Definition of "Natural Sourced" is having come
from, in part or in whole, a natural or organic source at one time. Obviously,
SOME of these ingredients are far from natural, but they may have naturally
derived components as their original source. Do not assume that because they are
listed here that they are natural.
All information
herein comes from either the Cosmetic Dictionary by Ruth Winters, trade publications,
supplier data sheets or other common industry sources. Acetamide MEA Used as a
stabilizer in hair conditioners and skin creams.
Ammonium Laureth Sulphate A compound used to break up and remove oils
and soil from the skin and hair. Produced by combining Ammonium salts derived
from a colorless, crystalline product made from coconut oil with organic ether
obtained from the distillation of alcohol.
Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate Ammonium salts derived from a colorless,
crystalline compound made from coconut oil. Used for its foaming properties and
acidic pH values. A mild anionic surfactant, meaning it has a negative charged
ion that reduces the surface tension of a product when dissolved in a solution.
A reduced surface tension gives a product better absorption into the skin and
promotes spreading of the product.
Cocamide TEA A fatty acid derived from the fatty acid of coconut oil
and glycerin. Commonly used in shampoos, conditioners and shower gels as a
thickener and foam boaster.
Cocoamidopropyl Betaine A coconut oil, alcohol and betaine compound. A
salt derived from the fatty acids of coconut oil. Betaine occurs commonly in
beets and other vegetables. It is used as an emulsifier, thickener, foam boaster
and conditioner. Coconut oil is a highly saturated fat semi-solid oil derived
from the kernels of coconuts. Alcohol is manufactured by the fermentation of
starch, sugar or any other carbohydrate. It is used to help dissolve or dispense
one or more substances. Commonly used in shampoos and conditioners for its
cleansing, thickening and foam boasting properties.
Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine Salt of fatty acids of coconut oil. An
atom of hydrogen and an atom of oxygen introduced into the fatty acids of
coconut oil to make it more soluble.
Cocopolyglucoside Citrate Coconut compounds with sugar, alcohol and
the salts or esters of citric acid. Citric acid is derived from the fermentation
of the crude sugars in citrus fruit. Alcohol is manufactured by the fermentation
of starch, sugar or any other carbohydrate. It is used to help dissolve or
dispense one or more substances.
Cocopolyglucoside Tartate Coconut compounds with sugar, alcohol, and
tartate. Tartate is available from many fruits but is mainly the by-product of
wine making. Alcohol is manufactured by the fermentation of starch, sugar or any
other carbohydrate. It is used to help dissolve or dispense one or more
substances.
Cetearyl Alcohol An emulsifying wax produced from a mixture of fatty
alcohols. Made from cetyl and stearyl alcohol’s which together form an occlusive
film to keep skin moisture from evaporating. They give hair and skin a velvety
feeling. This is a long chain alcohol that actually comes in a
powder/crystalline form, almost waxy and is used to add body and allow for comb
ability in hair products.
Cetearyl Glucoside A compound of glucose and cetearyl alcohol.
Cetearyl alcohol is from fatty alcohol’s. It helps skin and hair retain natural
moisture and imparts a velvety feeling. Glucose occurs naturally in sugars. May
be naturally derived. Cetearyl alcohol was produced to chemically resemble sperm
whale oil or spermaceti oil. Which was a popular ingredient in creams that
contributed to the extinction of sperm whales.
Diazolidinyl
urea - a preservative in aqueous solutions decompose to formaldehyde and
some unidentified products. The release of formaldehyde from Diazolidinyl urea
is dependent on temperature, pH and storage period of the solution.
Emulsifying Wax NF (Polawax) Plant based, used to create a bond
between water and oil. A critical ingredient in lotions and cream since there is
no other natural product that can create a smooth texture. An emulsifier is a
chemical compound that joins oil and water and forms a stable mixture called an
emulsion. The molecular structure of an emulsifier molecule is able to attract
both a water and an oil molecule at different sites at the same time.
Emulsifiers manufactured from plant fats have one or two fatty acids removed
leaving one or two hydrophilic sites vacant on the glycerin molecule. The vacant
locations on the glycerin molecule have a high affinity to water while the
remaining fatty acid tails attract oily compounds. An emulsifier molecules act
as intermediary to bind water and oil. The resulting compounds are called
monogycerides and diglycerides which represent an important class of natural
emulsifiers.
Ethyl
Alcohol -
Also known as ethanol. Also
known as alcohol colloquially, and is used as a solvent and is widely used in
the cosmetic industry. Many cosmetics consist mainly of alcohol, such as
aftershave lotion and some colognes, as well as many deodorants and mouth
washes. It is also used in some shaving creams, shampoos and other skin lotions.
Ethanol is clear and is quite flammable with a relatively good taste.
Germaben II - is a liquid
preservative system with the following composition:
Diazolidinyl urea - 30%
Methylparaben - 11%
Propylparaben - 3%
Propylene Glycol -
56%
Germaben II is a clear viscous
liquid with a characteristic mild odor. It is readily soluble at a level of 1.0%
in both aqueous solutions and oil/water emulsions. Germaben II is a convenient,
ready to-use complete antimicrobial preservative system with a broad spectrum of
activity. The solubilized combination of Germall II with methylparaben and
propylparaben is effective against Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria and
against yeast and mold. Germaben II can be used without additional
co-preservatives and is compatible with essentially all cosmetic ingredients,
including surfactants and proteins.
Germall Plus - One of the newer preservatives, Germall Plus
Liquid is water soluble and works wonderfully with virtually all Oil and Water
emulsions. This preservative is highly effective in inhibiting the growth of
bacteria, yeasts, fungus and molds even at very low concentrations, making it
extremely cost effective. Usual recommended use level: 0.1%-0.5% of total
formulation weight. Add to finished formulation at temps of 122F and lower.
INCI : Propylene Glycol & Diazolidinyl Urea & Iodopropynyl
Butylcarbamate.
Glycolic
Acid -
This is the most commonly
used form of alpha hydroxy acid. It can be used in both low and high strength.
Lower strength glycolic acids are used in many over-the-counter skin care
products, whereas office lunchtime peels can be a stronger version applied at
either a dermatologist ‘s or a plastic surgeon’s office. Some salons are also
applying a stronger version of glycolic acid. Glycolic acid application can be
an important adjunct in maintaining a youthful skin care regimen.
Hyaluronic Acid - This is a natural protein found in
multiple body secretions. It is used as a cosmetic topically. It also helps
reduce swelling because it absorbs moisture.
Imidazolidinyl Urea - Imidazolidinyl urea a preservative in aqueous
solutions decompose to formaldehyde and some unidentified products. The release
of formaldehyde from imidazolidinyl urea is dependent on temperature, pH and
storage period of the solution.
Kojic Acid - This is a form of bleaching agent
which is rather effective at reducing pigmentation irregularities. Please refer
to hydroquinone for discussion of pigmentation agents.
Lanolin
- Also known as
wool fat, or wool wax. It is a product of the oil glands of sheep and is used in
many cosmetic skin care products. It can cause allergic reactions and skin
rashes. It does not have any particular advantages in treating wrinkles. Lanolin
is not very helpful in treating topical skin rashes.
LiquaPar PE - is
a 100% active, clear, stable, liquid blend of isopropyl, isobutyl, and n-butyl
esters of para hydroxybenzoic acid with phenoxyethanol. This combination of
parabens and phenoxyethanol is effective against Gram-negative and Gram-positive
bacteria, yeast, and mold providing broad spectrum activity for worldwide
formulations. The potentiator effect of phenoxyethanol facilitates use of the
LiquaPar Oil technology in nonionic emulsion systems where paraben efficacy
might otherwise be compromised. All LiquaPar PE components are approved for
worldwide use thus allowing sale of the same finished formulation in Japan,
Europe, Australia and the United States. LiquaPar PE is an active blend of
parabens and phenoxyethanol useful in a wide range of cosmetic formulations
including anhydrous systems. The potentiating effect of phenoxyethanol combined
with the highly effective paraben blend provides an effective preservative
system for even difficult to preserve nonionic emulsions. In most systems
LiquaPar PE should be incorporated at a concentration of 1.0% by weight of the
finished formulation.
Magnesium Sulfate USP - (Epsom Salts) A soaking aid for minor
sprains, muscle aches and bruises. A water softener and bath additive.
Methyl Paraben - (Methyl p-Hydroxybenzoate) Methyl
p-Hydroxybenzoate comes from the combination of denatured wood alcohol and
benzoic acid. Benzoic acid occurs naturally in cherry bark, raspberries, tea,
anise and cassia bark. It is neutral, nontoxic, safe to use, nonirritating,
nonsensitizing and nonpoisonous. It is one of the most commonly used
preservative in cosmetics since it is stable at most pH levels, is broad
spectrum and water soluble.
Optiphen - is a unique
liquid preservative formulation that consists of phenoxyethanol and an emollient
base. The primary active ingredient is 2-phenoxyethanol, which is an aromatic
ether alcohol often utilized for preservation of personal care products. The
secondary ingredient, caprylyl glycol, also known as 1,2-octanediol, functions
as the emollient base. Optiphen is a clear liquid-preservative that can be
easily added directly to the formulation during pre- or post-emulsification at
or below 80°C. There are no pH restrictions in formulating with Optiphen.
Optiphen is compatible with most ingredients used in the personal care
industry.
Polysorbate 20 - (Emulsifier) Widely used emulsifier, a vicious
oily liquid derived from lauric acid. Lauric acid is a common constituent of
coconut oil. Polysorbate 20 is a nonionic surfactant, meaning it has no
electrical charge. A surfactant is a wetting (surface active) agent that lowers
the water surface tension permitting it to penetrate more easily.
Propylene Glycol - Often derived from lactic acid, glucose, or
seaweed. The most common moisture carrying ingredient other than water used in
cosmetics because it moisturizes better than glycerin. Is used as a wetting
agent and surfactant which gives a product better absorption and promotes
spreading of the product on the skin. Originally derived from brown algae and
since mixed with a few other goodies, the chemical has been used for almost a
century in one form or another. Propylene Glycol is an emollient. Not to be
confused with Ethyl Glycol which is used in anti-freeze and other chemical based
products. It can penetrate the outermost layer of the skin cells and carry other
beneficial products deeper into the epidermis. According to the AMA's committee
on Cutaneous Health emollients do help make the skin feel softer and smoother,
reduce roughness, cracking and irritation. And may possibly retard the fine
wrinkles of aging.
The U.S. Department of Health and Human Services, within the Public Health
Services for Toxin Substances and Disease Registry have conducted studies and
have shown that propylene glycol is a completely safe product in cosmetics.
Propyl Paraben - (Propyl-4-hydroxybenzoate) Widely used in
cosmetics as a preservative against bacteria and fungus. Esters of
p-Hydroxybenzoate prepared from p-bromophenol. Meaning that hydrogen gas was
added under high pressure a liquid oil in order to semisolid fats.
Hydroxybenzoate is from benzoic acid, which occurs naturally in cherry bark,
raspberries, tea, anise and cassia bark. Propyl Paraben is neutral, nontoxic,
safe to use, nonirritating, nonsensitizing and nonpoisonous. It is one of the
most commonly used preservatives in cosmetics since it is stable in most pH
levels, broad spectrum and water soluble.
Sodium Chloride (Sea Salts) Sea salt used as an astringent,
antiseptic, cleanser and adjusts viscosity.
Sodium Cocoate Sodium salts compounded with coconut fatty oils.
Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate is a broad spectrum antimicrobial that
is active against Gram-negative and Gram-positive bacteria, yeast and mold. It
is used at extremely low concentrations between .1% to 1% at the most. It is
active at all alkaline pH levels as well as acidic conditions. It acts for both
preservation and neutralization, which means it can be used in place of TEA
(triethanolamine) or sodium hydroxide. It is synergistic with other
preservatives. There are no ingredients used in cosmetics that render sodium
hydroxymethylglycinate non-effective. Sodium hydroxymethylgycinate is derived
from glycine, which is a naturally occurring amino acid. Traditionally glycine
was used a texturizer in cosmetics. It is an amino acid classified as
nonessential. Glycine is made up of sweet-tasting crystals, it is used as a
dietary supplement and as a gastric antacid. Amino Acids are widely used in
cosmetics because they help penetrate the skin. This preservative can react with
certain essential oils, specifically citrus and mint oriented. The reaction can
cause your product base to change colors, but does not effect the efficacy of
the preservative. Sodium hydroxymethylglycinate in aqueous solution decomposes
to sodium glycinate and formaldehyde. Glycine is an essential amino acid, and
does not appear to be harmful. So, the regulation of sodium
hydroxymethylglycinate as total formaldehyde should not give any additional
safety problem to consumers, as long as the maximum authorized concentration of
this compound is maintained. (SCCNFP/587/02)
Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) is the sodium salt of sulfated
ethoxylated lauryl alcohol. Which means salt of sulfuric acid has been added to
the crystalline compound produced from coconut in order to control the
acid-alkali balance; and ethyl and oxygen are mixed and added to make it more
soluble in water. There has been a huge scare centered on the use of SLS and
SLES, which stems from the incorrect reporting by Neways Web sites of a study
done at the Medical College of Georgia by Dr. Keith Green. He states that he was
not only misquoted but also the majority of the misinformation is completely
false. Also, the American Cancer Society has stated that SLS and SLES do not
cause cancer. They have searched all the recognized medical journals and have
found no articles linking cancer and SLS or SLES. Please see the CIR Expert
Panels findings on SLS here. CIR Link
Sodium Stearate A compound of 92.82% stearic acid with sodium salts.
Stearic acid is a fatty acid that occurs naturally in butter acids, tallow and
oils.
Sorbitol
- This is a
humectant and gives a smooth feel to the skin. Currently it is used instead of
glycerin in many ointments.
Soyamidopropyl Betaine A soybean oil, alcohol and betaine compound.
Betaine is complicated organic detergents that occur naturally in sugar beets
and other vegetables. It is used as an emulsifier, thickener, foam boaster and
conditioner. Soybean is extracted from the seeds of soybeans. Alcohol is
manufactured by the fermentation of starch, sugar or any other carbohydrate. It
is used to help dissolve or dispense one or more substances.
SPF
- Sun protection
factor is the acronym used to depict how much sun protection is offered by a
sunscreen. Specifically a sun block only measures the amount of sun protection
that can be caused from ultraviolet B rays and not ultraviolet A rays. Both UVA
and UVB rays can lead to photo aging and skin cancers. Typically an SPF of 15 or
30 is recommended. The use of sun blocking agents with the addition of titanium
or zinc oxide is extremely helpful in reducing all exposure to the sun’s rays.
Stearalkonium Chloride This quartenary ammonium
compound adds shine to hair and improves the ability to comb through
hair. A complex cationic conditioning ingredient
which demonstrates a natural affinity for fibrous protein and forms a protective
coating on the cuticle of the hair. Retards hair tangling and enhances wet
comb-out properties and overall manageability.
Stearic Acid (Palm Stearic) A vegetable derivative used to stiffen and
stabilize lotions and creams. Occurs naturally in vegetable fats. A white, waxy,
natural fatty acid.
Sunscreens - The active ingredients for most
sunscreens are one of the following: PABA and PABA esters, Benzophenones,
Cinnamates, Salicylates, and Anthranilate. These products are useful in the
prevention of sunburns as well as in reducing the long term damage that sun
exposure can cause with its concomitant skin cancer and wrinkle producing
properties. Most sunscreens do an excellent job of absorbing UVB rays, but do
not do as good a job with UVA rays. Many of the newer sunscreens will screen out
both UVA and UVB. A combination agent which contains zinc oxide is the best.
Sunscreens come with a number called the sun protection factor, or SPF.
Recommendations in the 15 to 30 range are ideal. If a sunscreen has a label of a
15 SPF, then with its use over a 15-hour period, the skin will have absorbed
only 1 hour’s worth of ultraviolet light. Other agents which block the sun
include zinc oxide, titanium oxide, magnesium silicate, kalin, ferric oxide, red
petrolatum, and magnesium oxide. Sunscreen is particularly important in
children, as 85% of all sun exposure occurs before the age of 18.
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